2023 Benedicte & Stephane Tissot, Arbois Chardonnay, Les Graviers

This iconic estate, for many, is a reference point not only for the Jura, but the wine world at large. Stéphane took over from his father in 1990 and almost immediately began focusing on the vineyards. In 1999, organic certification was received and then biodynamic came five years after. In many ways, there is a Burgundian undercurrent as can be seen with the obsession of terroir-driven bottlings, but, at the end of the day, these wines are unmistakably Jurassic. A touch of funk combined with an almost electric palate, there is a certain punk rock attitude amidst the layers of complexity that is totally beguiling. 'Les Graviers' is 100% Chardonnay which comes from limestone-rich soils and ages in large, neutral barrels. Close to white Burgundy but with a more adventurous bent. For food, think lighter meats or rich seafood.