2004 Bodegas Riojanas, Vina Albina Gran Reserva, Rioja

Bodegas Riojanas is one of the old Cenicero houses, founded in 1890 and still tied to the Artacho family. Viña Albina is their traditional Rioja Alta bottling, made from 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano grown on clay-limestone soils. The blend matters: Tempranillo gives the core, Mazuelo adds acidity and firmness, and Graciano brings color and spice.

2004 is one of the great modern Rioja vintages, and Gran Reserva is the right format for a house like this. Long aging in American oak and bottle has moved the wine into the classic mature Rioja register: dried cherry, cedar, leather, tobacco and spice. Ready to drink now, especially with lamb, roast mushrooms, grilled pork or aged Manchego.