2022 Carmelo Pena Santana, Bien de Altura, Ikewen, Gran Canaria

The work being done on Gran Canaria by Carmelo Peña Santana is reshaping the narrative of the entire Canary archipelago. His wines are born of extreme conditions: ungrafted vines (pie franco) situated at dizzying elevations of 1,100 to 1,400 meters in the San Mateo district. "Ikewen" (Berber for "origin") is the entry point, though it lacks nothing in complexity. A field blend of Listán Negro, Listán Prieto, and indigenous varieties from sandy, volcanic slopes. The 2022 offers crunchy red berries, white pepper, and a distinctive note of crushed pumice. It is nervous and high-toned, driven by bright acidity rather than extraction.