2022 La Pepiere, Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Chateau Thebaud

La Pépière has long been one of the benchmarks in Muscadet, and the single-site bottlings are where you really see why. Les Morines comes from old vines planted on granite and gabbro in Clisson, one of the cru villages of Muscadet where longer aging is required and the wines take on more depth and breadth than basic Sèvre et Maine.

This is still Melon de Bourgogne, but in a much more serious register. Long lees aging gives the wine more texture and shape, while the rocky soils keep it taut and saline. A killer bottle for anyone who thinks Muscadet is only simple oyster wine.