2023 Do Ferreiro, Rias Baixas, Albarino, Cepas Vellas

I could drink so very much of this noble wine. It’s made from pergola-trained vines that are among the oldest in the world at over 200 years of age. There’s a minerality here that expresses itself with conviction straight out of the glass, but what really makes you swoon is this wine’s irrepressible saltiness on the finish! It just bowls you over, and this duo makes this wine so powerfully addictive—and it’s all likely due to the sands of Salnès. (Sand tends to equal concentration and power. Most other great Albariño is less honeyed, dense, and rich; it’s typically more spiky, nervy, and energetic, and grows on less sandy decomposed granite). The power and conviction are simply otherworldly.