2023 Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin

Dugat is an iconic producer in the midst of a renaissance. This once-lauded estate fell out of fashion as Claude's concentrated, powerful winemaking style lost favor among the Burgundy cognoscenti. Since 2015, Claude's children have run this estate under Claude's watchful eye and are now, finally, fully in charge. Over the years, they converted to organic and biodynamic farming and dramatically reduced the percentage of new oak used during ageing (élevage). Without a doubt, this storied address is on the rise again, making classic, long-lived wines with a renewed sense of finesse, precision, and a lighter touch in the cellar.