2023 Gerard Boulay, Sancerre, Comtesse

Boulay is very popular and understandably so. All of their vineyards are in the village of Chavignol, the most famous of the Sancerre villages. The wines are planted on Kimmerdgian soils, and Boulay has been farming organically since 1990. His top wines can easily age for several decades. These are special, world-class in every way. They are vinified in 300L neutral oak barrels so there is a richness and texture to them that rivals Burgundy. La Comtesse, Boulay's top cuvee, is sourced from his oldest vines in the sweet spot of Mont Damnes. The hill of Mont Damnés (the damned Mountain) is so steep in certain areas that they have to use winches to get up and down the rows, as some are planted at 45-degree angles. It’s heroic viticulture and a unique part of this town’s culture – medieval monks who farmed the grapes there gave the vineyard its memorable name. ’23 is a solar vintage, and so this wine shows the ripe style, intensely mineral fruit along with salivating acidity. I decant this wine when young and always prefer a few more years in the cellar to reach its apogee. Great wine to cellar and enjoy over the years.