2023 Philippe Jouan, Morey-Saint-Denis, 1er Cru Clos Sorbe Vieilles Vignes

For those who long for Jacky Truchot’s soulful, old-school Burgundies, Philippe Jouan’s tiny domaine quietly carries that torch in a remarkably transparent, traditional style. Jouan practices full destemming, gentle basket pressing, and barely a trace of new oak, yielding Burgundies of graceful fruit with a raw, nervous energy humming beneath, and that haunting perfume that recalls the greats of another era. His production is minuscule (around 3 hectares of vines), so these under-the-radar gems are disappearing fast into the cellars of those in the know. Do not mistake his wines for delicate; there is power at their core. Give them time in the cellar. These wines age beautifully, rewarding patience with ever-deepening nuance and soul. The ’23s are a touch brighter and more lifted than the ’22s, but every bit as seamless and pure. The style remains unmistakably Jouan. Clos Sorbé is from 86-year-old vines in the heart of the village that grow alongside those of the late Jacky Truchot.