2023 Pierre Morey, Meursault, Les Tessons

Les Tessons is one of Meursault's most quietly celebrated village climates — a steep, stony limestone slope where shallow soils keep the vines naturally lean and focused. No excess, no generosity it hasn't earned. That restraint is exactly what makes it interesting.

Pierre and Anne Morey have farmed this parcel biodynamically since 1997, and the philosophy is the same here as everywhere in the domaine: healthy soil, expressive vines, and a cellar approach that follows rather than leads. Spontaneous fermentation, extended lees aging, nothing that interrupts the conversation between the vine and the glass.

2023 was a nuanced vintage — warm overall, but with a cooler summer that kept the acidity intact and the wine from tipping into richness for its own sake. The result is Meursault with a vertical, mineral quality: precise and energetic rather than broad and buttery. There's real tension here, the kind that makes you reach for the glass again before you've finished thinking about the last sip.