2024 Camille & Guillaume Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Enseigneres

Camille and Guillaume Boillot have moved away from the opulent, historic style of the Boillot name. They use a vertical basket press, which increases phenolic extraction and protects the wine from oxidation. By using 350L barrels and skipping bâtonnage, they achieve the reduction and smoky tension associated with Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. But do not mistake this for masking the fruit. What’s thrilling about these wines is that the reduction is more of a garnish; it is neither intrusive nor overpowering. It simply elevates the wine. Les Enseignères sits directly below the Grand Cru Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet; it is widely considered one of the most prestigious village-level sites in the village. In the glass, the wine shows a balanced structure with notes of white peach, lemon oil, and a subtle hazelnut character that lingers on a saline finish. The 2024 vintage contributed an electric sense of energy and clear, lifted acidity, shaping a wine defined by its remarkable tension and freshness. This is a truly stunning wine. It is one of those white Burgundies that brings a smile to your face when you drink it. The fruit is sunny and perfectly ripe, with well-integrated fruit and beautifully balanced acidity.