2016 Alessandro E Gian Natale Fantino, Laboro Disobedient

This is declassified, Barolo Riserva from a fantastic producer and a fantastic vintage. Alessandro Fantino managed the vineyards and served as the enologist for local legend Bartolo Mascarello for 20 years (’78 to ’97) before concentrating full time in ’98 with his brother Gian Natale at the family’s Bussia estate. ‘Laboro Disubbidiente’ was born of a bureaucratic mistake that forced the Fantino brothers to declassify their 2005 Barolo Riserva. They decided to continue the practice starting in 2010, releasing a Barolo Riserva aged for 5 years in botti at the lowest legal category possible: red table wine. Laboro Disubbidiente may not technically be a Barolo, but it is one of the most pure and pleasurable wines made in the region. Nebbiolo (the grape that makes Barolo & Barbaresco) is to Italy as Pinot Noir is to France – arguably the most important red grape and one of the best conduits of Italian terroir. This is made from their best fruit from the Bussia Cru: the epitome of elegance and pleasure in the Barolo area.