Domaine de Marzilly (Ullens), Champagne, Lot 11 Extra Brut

Maxime Ullens tends Domaine de Marzilly like a small farm — because that's exactly what it is. Nestled in the Massif de Saint-Thierry, one of Champagne's quieter, lesser-known corners, he grows his own trees, mills his own oak, and farms his vines without shortcuts. The barrels his wines age in were built from timber grown on the same land. That level of intention is rare anywhere, let alone in Champagne.

The Lot 11 Brut is 80% Meunier and 20% Chardonnay, grown in the deep sandy soils of Hermonville — a geological quirk that gives the wine a saline, almost electric quality you don't often find in Champagne. Think less toasty richness, more sea breeze and lemon zest. It's bright and focused, with a fine texture and a long, clean finish that keeps pulling you back for another sip.

No fining, no filtration. What you taste is exactly what the vineyard gave — nothing added, nothing taken away. This wine also sees 3 years aging on the lees, beyond the 15-month non-vintage requirement. 

For the drinker who finds most Champagne either too simple or too austere, this sits beautifully in between: it has real depth and structure, but it's alive and refreshing in a way that makes it just as at home at the dinner table as it is at the start of an evening.