2021 Georges Lignier et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Combottes

This is a great drinking wine for the Burgundy purist, which emphasizes complexity and transparency before concentration and color, energy and vibrancy before power. These are never going to be wines that burst out in expansive lineups, and Benoit Stehly has no interest in creating wines that simply flatter. They are certainly not flimsy wines, though. These ’21 wines show all the tension and brightness we expect from this address and that early drinking appeal the ’21 vintage is so famous for. For fans of this style of Pinot Noir, these are archetypal examples that remain smartly priced given both the quality of their old-vine holdings in some of the most hallowed terroir in the Cote de Nuits and their obvious overall class. This is Burgundy without pretense, haltingly honest and extremely delicious. 

Combottes is a special vineyard that lies at the southern end of Gevrey on the border with Morey St. Denis. It is surrounded by all grand cru vineyards. This is without question hallowed ground. The ’21 Combottes is still a youthful wine and certainly benefits from an hour or two in the decanter before serving, but it is already a joyous bottle of wine. The nose features that iron, sanguine feeling you get from Morey and the spicy, earthy, rustic fruits from Gevrey. Certainly, this is a wine you can enjoy tremendously on the nose alone – no need to drink it. On the palate, it feels like a Grand Cru – with depth, concentration, and nuance. As much fun as this is to drink now, you’d also do well to put a pile away as it has plenty of great cellar life ahead too.