2021 Georges Lignier et Fils, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, Clos des Ormes

These are great, drinking wines for the Burgundy purist, which emphasize complexity and transparency before concentration and color, energy and vibrancy before power. These are never going to be wines that burst out in expansive lineups, and Benoit Stehly has no interest in creating wines that simply flatter. They are certainly not flimsy wines, though. These ’21 wines show all the tension and brightness we expect from this address and that early drinking appeal the ’21 vintage is so famous for. For fans of this style of Pinot Noir, these are archetypal examples that remain smartly priced given both the quality of their old-vine holdings in some of the most hallowed terroir in the Cote de Nuits and their obvious overall class. This is Burgundy without pretense, haltingly honest and extremely delicious. 

Only eight estates in Burgundy claim ownership of the 4 hectares of Clos des Ormes, and Georges Lignier’s 2ha share is equal to the other seven combined. Located just downslope from Clos de la Roche, Lignier gives all the attention such an exemplary site is due to create a wine of elegance and significance. Surprisingly, the vine age is the youngest of all Lignier’s holdings, only averaging 45 years. We’ve worked closely with this Domaine for the past 4 or 5 vintages, and the new releases are another success for this address. In 2015, Benoit converted all the vineyards to organic farming and really concentrated on improving their fruit. The results of all that hard work are starting to pay dividends, and I see this as a Domaine truly on a rise to stardom.