2021 Guillaume Gilles, Cornas

This is an excellent introduction to the Northern Rhone, a region in the south of France where Syrah is the star—these are among the noblest iterations out there. Guillaume Gilles studied under the legendary Robert Michel and now works Michel's top parcel in the Chaillot vineyard and makes his wines in Michel's old cellars. Though he does not list it on his label, this wine, his top cuvée, is all from Chaillot, a blend of parcels from throughout the vineyard. His methods in the cellar are staunchly traditional, but the wines themselves are as vibrant and energetic as Cornas comes. Aromas of earthy, savory, charred meat with peppercorns and dried desert herbs in addition to its fruitiness that might be best described as tiny dark berries. This is a monster of a wine to try with steak or lamb.