2000 Luis Pato, Vinha Barrio, Beiras

This wine hails from the region of Beiras Atlantico, a region similarly inflected by maritime winds as Bairrada. With two decades (!) of aging for the materials to soften, it's just exquisite. Imagine it as the Nebbiolo of the sea. Others are eager to compare it to Pinot Noir or Syrah. The Vinha Barrio abuts Vinha Formal to the east, in full view of the Bussaco Mountains (the western border of Dão) and it sits on a pocket of extremely chalky soils with intermittent dollops of sand. Especially given the age, this helps show the nobility of Baga—how this seemingly indestructible, tannic red grape can make these exceedingly delicate and elegant supple reds that steal your heart. It oten brings to mind old-school Left Bank Bordeaux at a fraction of the cost.