2021 Nervi Conterno, Gattinara

While the mountainous, often snowy scenery surrounding the hills of Alto Piemonte may not conjure visions of lava flows, the land here carries the distinct mark of a volcano, albeit one that has been out of commission for some time. 280 million years ago, a supervolcano erupted in the area, bringing magma deep from within the earth’s crust to the surface of the valley on the banks of the Sesia river. The result of this striking upheaval can be seen today in the incredibly diverse soils on display throughout the region, which was recognized as a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2013 for its geologic uniqueness. The appellation of Gattinara, perhaps the most historically significant of the Alto Piemonte villages, sits at the heart of the geologic fossil formed by the eruption.

Gattinara’s vineyards are directly influenced by volcanic rock (red porphyry). The greatest examples channel this singular terroir into wines with piercing minerality and beams of acidity that lend these wines impeccable poise, drive and age-worthiness. Here you can find Nebbiolo-based wines that carry the intensity of flavor and a bit of the structure of top-notch Barolo with a finesse afforded by the area’s cooler setting. In the 19th century, Barolo & Barbaresco played second fiddle to Gattinara, which was held as the benchmark for the Nebbiolo grape. Fast forward to the 21st century, and this appellation is poised for a resurgence as a source of some of Italy’s most compelling red wines. 

Roberto Conterno, the legendary Barolo producer, purchased the historic Nervi property in 2018 after serving as a consulting oenoligist for the past few vintages. Given that Conterno is perhaps the most important name in Italian wine, it’s hard not to read this acquisition as a marquee moment for the appellation. Nervi has been producing top notch Gattinara for many years now, so we’re not expecting dramatic changes in the character of the wines here, but it’s pretty clear that with Conterno’s investment and expertise, there will be a significant change in their sheer class. This is very much a wine that you could cellar and enjoy down the road, but the freshness from the cooler climate and cooler vintage yield a wine that can be enjoyed now as well. This is special stuff.