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Aligoté is often regarded as the refreshing, cheap & cheerful cousin to Burgundian Chardonnay, but recent years have seen a revitalization of the variety by an increasing number of producers. First and foremost amongst them is Aubert de Villaine, the famous proprietor of Domaine Romanée-Conti, who from his estate in Bouzeron long ago proved what Aligoté is capable of. Aubert works with a specific clone of Aligoté called Aligoté Doré, which is native to the village of Bouzeron. Though this wine certainly does not lack for simple refreshment, its length and persistence amply justify a reconsideration of this humble variety. It’s a remarkable bottle that speaks to the potential of this grape when handled with such care.
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