Domaine Mayard

Brothers Hugo and Arthur Mayard describe themselves as “paysans vignerons” which tells you a lot about their vibe – humble countrymen honoring their family’s rich history in the region – their family is one of the oldest to bottle CDP and commercialize it back in the 1920s. They are the sixth generation of Mayard winemakers, now in charge of this estate following the separation of the Mayard family’s vineyards into several properties. Their inaugural vintage is 2021, so this bottle is the first ever released from this estate.

These young vignerons are forging a new path, one that prioritizes organic and regenerative viticulture as well as some creative ideas in the cellar to produce an elusive, elegant, pure style of CDP. They see their vineyards as part of an ecosystem and carefully prune and plant cover crops to increase organic life in the vineyard and to create competition with the vines. Earthworms thrive in their vineyards and create nutrient highways bringing health and vigor to their ancient vines.

They farm 4 different plots across 10 hectares in CDP. 2 plots are in the south of the AOC: Le Grand Coulet (5ha) planted in 1931 mainly with Grenache but also with Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault + Les Serres (2ha) planted half to Grenache and half to Mourvèdre. They also have arguably the most famous CDP terroir, La Crau Est – their parcel is on the top of the hill on the northern side planted with Grenache in 1904! Below it is a terrace of Cinsault on sandy soil. And finally, they have a Mourvèdre vineyard in Le Pointu which is located below Monsieur Reynaud’s (Château Rayas) in Pignan (sandy soil).       

Arthur and Hugo have incredible old vineyards that they are farming so meticulously, but they’re also doing amazing things in the cellar. Everything is harvested by hand, and once in the cellar, each plot is vinified separately in either concrete, foudre, or stainless steel – depending on the variety and plot. Ferments occur with partially destemmed grapes, native yeasts, and zero added sulfur (during fermentation) ensuring minimal manipulation and maximum expression of their special terroirs. And, this is going to get a little geeky and technical, but it’s so fascinating to learn about their cap manipulation methods, and I believe these efforts have a lot to do with the resulting wine. 

During red wine fermentation, grape skins (pomace) rise to the surface forming a “cap.” Ideally, the cap needs regular mixing to extract color, flavor, and tannins. Traditionally, this is done by punching down the cap (pigéage) or pumping juice back over it (remontage or delestage). However, Arthur and Hugo have figured out a way to capture and repulse CO2 offering a different method for cap management. They are capturing carbon dioxide (byproduct of fermentation) and pulsing it back through the must during maceration and fermentation to manipulate their cap and gently extract all they want from the skins. This keeps the cap wet, and because it’s done with CO2, zero micro-oxygenation occurs – resulting in super elegant, fine tannins. From there, the wine ages for one year in foudre and two years in concrete before bottling with minimal added sulfur.

The results of their careful attention to detail both in the vineyard and in the winery are so impressive. If you’ve ever enjoyed a properly aged, classic-style CDP, you know that this appellation can offer the weightless, beguiling qualities that make us all go crazy for Burgundy. Rarely do you see that in CDP anymore – however, with Mayard, it’s as clear as day – this wine offers that in spades. Their passionate commitment to less-invasive methods results in captivatingly light-footed wines with less alcohol and less extraction setting a new standard for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This focus on elegance evokes a stylistic throwback to the classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape of the 1950s and 60s, capturing the essence of the region without the faults of past eras. As this young estate continues to flourish, the future of Mayard wines promises to be as captivating as this first bottling. Do not miss it – you may just fall in love with CDP again!!