| | | | Roberto Conterno in the his cellar - Polaner Selections | | You’d be hard pressed to find a single property in Piedmont that is more universally admired than Giacomo Conterno. The family has been turning out classically styled, powerful wines for four generations, including their legendary Barolo bottling Monfortino. Roberto Conterno, who is in charge today, continues to elevate the reverence for his family’s great name that has so long been synonymous with Serralunga d’Alba. Roberto has certainly made some notable improvements at the estate in Barolo, but the most revolutionary move he has made was the purchase of the iconic Nervi estate in Gattinara. The slow rise in prominence of Alto-Piemonte over the past few decades gained a frenzied air after the purchase in 2018 that has not let up yet. The acquisition has been widely recognized as an affirmation of Alto-Piemonte’s immense potential given the weight the Conterno name carries. In many ways Nervi’s history mirrors that of G. Conterno. The winery is over 100 years old, surviving the dramatic downturn in Alto-Piemonte that lead to the dissolution of so many of the area’s producers. In the process they were able to acquire prime parcels in Gattinara including Molsino and Valferana which are now bottled as single vineyard wines. Nervi has, like Conterno, worked in a traditional mold aging their Nebbiolo in large botti for 3-4 years before bottling and crafting wines that cellar extremely well. The similarities end in 1991 when the estate was purchased from the Nervi family first by a steel magnate and then again by a consortium of Scandinavian investors. With Roberto’s purchase the winery is in good hands and poised to enter a thrilling new chapter in their history. For the first time we are able to offer Giacomo Conterno Barolo alongside Nervi-Conterno Gattinara, largely drawn from the outstanding 2016 vintage. From Gattinara, Molsino tends to be tightly coiled and poised to perform best in the cellar while the Valferana is more opulent and floral; certainly more accessible now. For earlier appeal, the Gattinara Normale is not to be missed; an absolutely classic Alto-Piemonte bottling. As for Barolo we have a limited amount of each of Roberto’s Barolos from Francia, Cerretta, and Arione available along with his age worthy Barbera bottlings. Francia has been a monopole of Giacomo Conterno’s estate since 1974 and widely regarded as one of the greatest sites in Barolo. Notably, no Monfortino was produced in 2016 meaning all the best fruit from Francia remained in the cru bottling (not the case in 2014 or 2015). Cerretta was added to the lineup in 2008 and Roberto’s rendition of this great vineyard has quickly been recognized as one of the best produced – the 2016 is no exception. Arione is a brand-new bottling for Conterno as of 2015, sourced from estate vineyards adjacent to Francia. Of special note, we are able to offer a precious few bottles of Monfortino – perhaps Barolos greatest wine. Despite the mixed reputation of the 2014 vintage, 2014 Monfortino is regarded as a legendary Barolo and stands as a testament to Roberto’s knowledge and skill. The wines below are offered on a first come, first served basis. Nervi Molsino and Valferana as well as the Conterno Cerretta Barbera and Barolo are pre-arrival and are slated to arrive in late November. Follow the links below to purchase directly from our site or call / email us if you need some assistance. Cheers,
| | | | | | | | | | | THE WINES | | | Giacomo Conterno - Barbera d’Alba Cerretta 2018 | | 12 BOTTLES AVAILABLE | | $75.00/BOTTLE | | "The 2018 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Cerretta is so elegant and refined in this vintage. The 2018 is lithe and precise, with lovely red berry, floral and blood orange flavors that are woven together into a fabric of total class. The long, silky finish is a thing of beauty. With a bit of time, the Cerretta starts to show its trademark pliancy. I would give it a few years in bottle. " – Antonio Galloni | | Giacomo Conterno - Barbera d'alba Francia 2018 | | 8 BOTTLES AVAILABLE | | $75.00/BOTTLE | | "The 2018 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Francia is an explosion of floral, savory and mineral notes. Like the Cerretta, the Francia Barbera is quite delicate in this vintage. It has a bit darker fruit, stronger savory undertones and a touch more depth. It is a beguiling, beautifully layered wine that unfolds graciously over time." - Antonio Galloni | | Giacomo Conterno - Barolo Arione 2016 | | 5 BOTTLES AVAILABLE | | $345.00/BOTTLE | | "The 2016 Barolo Arione is a sort of synthesis between the Cerretta and Francia. It has the red fruit profile and floral overtones of the former with a feeling of structure that recalls the later. Arione Barolos always have a distinctly wild, feral quality strong on iron and mineral notes, which is very much the case here. Logically, the 2016 needs a bit of time to soften, but it is super-impressive. It is perhaps a bit less polished than the Francia, but it also has a phenomenally long, classically austere finish. It’s the sort of wine I would like to spend a few hours with. In 2016, there is no Monfortino, so all of the Arione wine is in this bottling, unlike 2015, when a portion was blended into Monfortino." Antonio Galloni | | Giacomo Conterno - Barolo Cerretta 2016 | | 18 BOTTLES AVAILABLE | 1 Magnum Available | | $365.00/BOTTLE | $775.00/Magnum | | "The 2016 Barolo Cerretta is an incredibly elegant wine, so much so that opening a bottle now is far from a crime. That may sound heretical, but it’s a good example of how finessed young Barolo can be when it gets the kind of care it has here. It’s also important to note that while Cerretta is in Serralunga, this pocket of vineyards is more similar to those in La Morra in terms of geology, so the wines are correspondingly much more approachable in their youth. Silky tannins wrap around a core of bright red berry fruit, spice and floral notes in a pliant, mid-weight Barolo that is all class." -Antonio Galloni | | Giacomo Conterno - Barolo Francia 2016 | | 5 BOTTLES AVAILABLE | | $375.00/BOTTLE | | "Conterno’s 2016 Barolo Francia is effusive, with a real sense of expansiveness that gives the wine breadth. Sage, mint, cedar, tobacco and strong mineral accents complement a core of dark fruit in a Barolo of real gravitas. Just bottled a few months ago, the 2016 is going through a very rare period of approachability (in relative terms). It will almost certainly shut down within the next few months. Readers who are curious will want to taste it before that happens. In 2016, Roberto Conterno did not bottle his flagship Monfortino, all the casks were blended for the Barolo Francia." -Antonio Galloni | | Giacomo Conterno - Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2014 | | 3 BOTTLES AVAILABLE | | $1295.00/BOTTLE | | "The 2014 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is an epic wine, just as it always has been. Readers will surely be tempted to taste the 2014 now, but I would try to resist that, if possible. Usually, I recommend tasting young Monfortino upon release, when it has only been bottled for a few months and before it shuts down. Roberto Conterno gave the 2014 six years in cask (instead of seven), so the 2014 was bottled a year earlier, in the summer of 2019, which means it is now very much in the closed-down zone. Time in the glass brings out its inner sweetness and sensuality, but the 2014 is nowhere near as expressive today as it was from cask, or earlier this year when it was one of the highlights of a magnum vertical all the way back to 1970. The 2014 Monfortino is an epic, monumental wine in every way. Opening a bottle now, though, is not likely to be especially rewarding." - Antonio Galloni | | Nervi-Conterno - Gattinara 2016 | | 23 BOTTLE AVAILABLE | | $52.99/BOTTLE | | "Nervi's 2016 Gattinara from Nervi is superb. Sweet red cherry, mint, juniper berry and wild flowers are some of the many notes that soar out of the glass. The 2016 is distinguished by its brilliant aromatic presence and tremendous purity of fruit. Even just bottled, the 2016 exudes precision and nuance to burn. Of course, the 2016 needs time, but readers who want to get a sense of what the future holds at Nervi will get plenty of answers here. This is such a captivating wine." - Antonio Galloni | | Nervi-Conterno - Gattinara Valferana 2016 | | 22 BOTTLES AVAILABLE | 6 MAGNUMS AVAILABLE | | $126.00/BOTTLE | $275.00/MAGNUM | | "The 2016 Gattinara Vigna Valferana is every bit as impressive from bottle as it was from cask. Rich and resonant, the 2016 is so supremely beautiful as it opens up in the glass. It is a wine of real breadth and textural expansiveness. Rose petal, mint, sweet dried cherry, tar, anise and orange peel are some of the nuances that emerge, but the Valferana is a wine to admire for its total sense of balance. In a word: Lights out. Make that two words." -Antonio Galloni | | Nervi-Conterno Gattinara Molsino 2016 | | 24 BOTTLE AVAILABLE | 6 MAGNUMS AVAILABLE | | $126.00/BOTTLE | $275.00/MAGNUM | | "Tasted next to the Valferana, the 2016 Gattinara Vigna Molsino is much more nervous in feel. Iron, dried herbs, sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and earthy notes give the Molsino a good deal of aromatic complexity to match its intense, saline-infused minerality. Today, though, the tannins and acids are almost overpowering. Readers will find an old-school, classically austere Gattinara that needs 10-15 years to be at its best. The 2016 is an absolute jewel of a wine, but it should be purchased only by readers with either very good genes are a ton of optimism regarding their own longevity." -Antonio Galloni | |
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