I taste and drink a great deal of Champagne, and every so often a grower stops me, and it is almost never the one the market is Instagramming. Domaine de Marzilly (Ullens) is that grower right now. Nothing about these wines is polished for effect. They are precise, dense through the mid-palate, and delicate in a way that reads as attention rather than surface style. Think of the textural nuance of Guiborat or the delicate yet brilliant rosé of Horiot’s Sève, and you are in the right neighborhood.
Though located nearby in Hermonville—sharing the same sandy soils as Chartogne-Taillet in the neighboring village of Merfy—the Ullens style is entirely its own. These wines are expansive yet possess a structural lift that is crunchy, saline, and utterly delightful, all the while yielding an effortless weightlessness.
Behind this is Maxime Ullens, a Belgian architect who bought a historic estate in 2012, fell down the rabbit hole, and enrolled at the viticultural school in Avize. He owns and organically farms ungrafted Meunier in the sandy soils of Hermonville. In addition to this slim, rugged parcel, Maxime leased an additional two hectares in the eastern and southern edges of the Montagne de Reims known as ‘La Petite Montagne.’ They supplement their production with purchased fruit, making four hectares worth of wine split between about 80% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. All of the wines are fermented and aged in barrels made from his own forest before release.
Quantities are effectively non-existent. Only twenty six-packs of the top cuvées came to the United States; we received just twelve bottles of each. I absolutely love Domaine de Marzilly and have been a long-time follower. If you love grower Champagne with verve, texture, salinity, and nuance, you would not want to miss out here.
We are always we are here for any questions you may have. Please respond to this email or email shop@mwcwine.com to place your order. If you are looking to pick up your order, please allow until Wednesday, 8/19.
Domaine de Marzilly (Ullens) - Please see available product link below.
NV LPM Extra Brut - 12 + @ $96/btl
100% Meunier. Broad and expansive across the palate but never soft, held together by serious texture and the structural tension that barrel aging provides. Upon opening, there is a toasty note from the oak, but it integrates nicely with air. I am embarrassed to admit that I had this open for two days, but on day two it was exquisite.
2022 Cuvée H Brut Nature - 12 @ $120/btl
100% Pinot Meunier from Hermonville, 2022 harvest. This is the first bottling from the domaine with zero dosage and no added sulfur - please do not let that scare you. There was no doubt in my mind that this was Meunier, but the grapey nature of Meunier was well supported and had vertical lift, round and mouth-filling, yet somehow weightless. A buoyant wine with a wonderfully long and fruit-full finish.
2018 Cuvée M Chardonnay, Extra Brut - 12 @ $125/btl
100% Chardonnay from the Massif de Saint Thierry, grown on the same sandy soils as the Meunier. One year in wood and seventy months on lees. Disgorged August 2025. Compact lemon and citrus, driving focused acidity, green apple, and nervous energy. Expansive in the mouth without ever feeling clingy.
2022 Cuvée NR, Rosé de Macération, Extra Brut - 12 @ $130/btl
The first release of this wine. 100% Meunier, whole berries infused in a glass globe rather than traditional maceration. Tirage September 2023, disgorged August 2025. Dosage 2.9 g/l using their own liqueur made from red coteaux. Only 1,174 bottles made. Purple fruit, a Provençal lift on the nose, delicate toast underneath, silky texture, and a very fine beaded mousse. Reminiscent of Horiot Sève Rosé de Saignée. It expands beautifully with air.
