Joseph Dorbon is one of those singular producers who make the Jura so charming. He’s such a character, an intensely pragmatic and exacting winemaker obsessed with purity and precision. He’s a tiny grower, meticulously, organically farming his three hectares of old vines, plowing by horse (super rare for this part of the world) in the limestone-marl soils near Vadans, just north of Arbois. He produces pristine fruit and makes his wines in a subterranean 16th-century cellar in Arbois.
After 30 years of making incredible wines, Dorbon officially retired. He passed the domain to his nephew, Pierre Laporte, starting with the ’23 vintage. Over the next few years, we’ll see the last expressions of his masterful work, making this 2020 - an outstanding Jura vintage, all the more special.
His Ploussard (or Poulsard – can be spelled either way, and of course Joseph employs the ancient spelling) comes from 60 to 80-year-old vines planted between the 1940s and 1960s. These old vines give the wine an extra layer of complexity. It showcases the grape's uniquely delicate and satiating character. To capture the freshness and purity of the fruit, he makes a deliberate choice: after a native yeast fermentation and super gentle extraction (more of an infusion than a traditional maceration—pump-overs and no pigeage), he ages it for one year entirely in stainless steel. No oak. He’s protecting that stunning vibrancy and high-toned fruit this indigenous red variety is famous for.
The result is this beautiful, pale red that is just so delicious. It’s low in tannin but high in that classic, refreshing acidity. It’s the kind of wine that cleanses your palate much like white wine, leaving you salivating for the next bite of food and the next sip. Honestly, it’s the kind of bottle that seems to have a hole in it. You’ll pour a glass, get to talking, and when you look down, you'll wonder where it all went.
It’s a fantastic wine to add to your weekly rotation, but it will be remarkable on your Thanksgiving table. Its acidity will cut through the richness and complement everything from the white meat to the sweet, buttery vegetables. This chillable, charming red is as representative of Joseph Dorbon as it is of his terroir. There is a joie de vivre in this wine and the man who made it, but don’t mistake that for cheap and cheerful. This is highly intentional, built for pleasure, and delivers exactly that! We will also have it open this Saturday November 1st at the shop from 2-5pm during our weekly Saturday tasting if you would like to come and taste it before buying!
