It has been three weeks since I tasted the 2023 vintage from Philippe Jouan, and my palate is still reeling. Simply put, the wines are stunning. They are slightly brighter and more lifted than the 2022 releases, yet they remain wonderfully pure and seamless. They open with a beautifully fragrant perfume, but do not mistake them for fragile. There is a raw energy and a serious power humming just beneath the surface.
If you long for the soulful and classic Burgundies of the late Jacky Truchot, Philippe Jouan quietly carries that torch. Many of his vines are planted to old selections of Pinot Fin, often 50 to 100 years in age. His tiny domaine embraces a remarkably transparent and traditional style. Jouan relies on complete destemming with an occasional 10 percent whole cluster. Macerations are short and cool, followed by gentle basket pressing and aging in barrel with restrained new oak. This gentle approach yields wines with graceful fruit and an intoxicating aroma that recalls the great bottles of another era.
Jouan's production is minuscule. He works with just around three hectares of vines from great parcels in Morey Saint-Denis including the ever superb Clos Sorbe and Clos Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin meaning these hidden gems are disappearing fast into the cellars of those in the know. While they are gorgeous right out of the gate, especially the Coteaux, Aux-Echezeaux and MSD, there is immense power at their core. These wines age beautifully, and giving them time in the cellar will reward your patience.
Philippe Jouan is truly one of my favorite domaines in Burgundy, and I am thrilled to offer these wines. Due to the limited production, there is only so much to go around. I will do my best to accommodate your requests, but this is first come, first served. Please email us at shop@mwcwine.com.
Happy Hunting!
THE WINES:
2023 Coteaux Bourguignons, Cuvée Thomas - 12+ btls @ $50/btl
These are the youngest vines of the domaine at 50 years old. Located just below the Route Nationale and therefore classified outside of Bourgogne Côte d'Or; bright, silken, and terroir-driven.
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes - 12+ btls @ $129.99/btl
An 80-year-old parcel bordering Grand Cru Mazoyères-Chambertin on the Morey side. The stony clay and limestone soils lend structure and aromatic lift; dark fruit, spice, and savory earth. This is the wine that turned me into a devout Jouan follower with the 2017 vintage.
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes - 12+ btls @ $110/btl
Village blend of 60 to 70-year-old vines around Clos Sorbès and Les Crais – pure red fruit and savory minerality. And to quote Tamlyn Currin of Jancis Robinson “You’d almost want to drink this now! This is ridiculously good.”
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbè Vieilles Vignes - 12 btls @ $235/btl
2 parcels that contain 55 and 90-year-old vines. Directly next to Truchot's parcel of Clos Sorbe. An iconic wine from this domaine.
2023 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes - 6 btls @ $365/btl
Vines that are nearly a century in age in the Maison Brûlées sector of the cru, near Clos des Lambrays. Decades ago this wine was sold directly to Drouhin and bottled directly from barrel. This wine is deeply layered, projecting dense and nervy fruit. The palate is expansive and built for the cellar.
